Few weeks back, we spent the day with Amber Mozo and she introduced us to her side of town. She just finished filming a short film, "Forgiving Pipeline" where she faced the wave, and swam in the waters that took her fathers life in 2005 for the first time.
We started the day chatting over coffee while munching on some homemade acai bowls, laughing and enjoying the morning with her family and her little pup (Willow) at her little beach bungalow.
This bright eyed beauty took us on a little day filled with the best views, secret spots, amazing food, and teaching us what it means to let go.
Interview & Photos by: Ali Hartwig
Tell me what your day-to-day is like?
A: I always wake up early! I have to look out the window to see what the weather is doing, if the wind is down, if its sunny, if its rainy.etc. There is no telling what the morning weather will bring. I then decide if the conditions are good for surfing or shooting in the water. If the weather is yuck, then I make myself some tea an go straight to work! I always have shoots to plan, photos to edit or just keeping in contact and connecting with others.
You conquered your biggest fear, you’re happily married, have already traveled around the world. Twice(!) and you’re only 23, what’s next for you?
A: I have so much more I want to do in this life! My next adventure will hopefully be in Brazil ( fingers crossed) I have so much energy and want to start a few more businesses that would keep me happy and creative. My next future endeavor will definitely be focused towards surfing and water based community. And when the timing is right I want to have kids with my husband and raise our family on the island, where I grew up.
I saw your buckets of bikinis, you have so many to choose from, what’s your all-time favorite?
A: Oh man, my go-to bikini would be sports bra tops- they are the best for surfing / shooting in the water! I’ve really been loving the long sleeve one piece surf suits lately!
Tell me what your beach bag essentials are?
A: Sunscreen, a hat, water, sometimes a speaker for music, a light book and snacks. Lots of snacks. Usually chocolate. And extra bikinis, always.
Your video "Forgiving Pipeline” gave me the chills, what was going through your head when you first stepped in the water at Pipe?
A: I was having Major Anxiety!!! Before I even jumped into the water I was standing on the sand trying not to let the shore break shoot me across the beach! Once I jumped in I just kept thinking, ‘’ Watch the waves, breathe, dive, and make sure you swim. Hard.’’ I’m humbled by the ocean every time I get in it, but this was a really special experience for me. I really had to let the ocean carry me. To trust her, learn to work with her and not against her. I’m super grateful for opportunities in life that help me heal and grow as well.
How long was the training process?
A: We did a bit of rock running and spent time in the water before going out to Pipeline. We talked about waves, timing and breathing. Zak talked me through what pipeline would be like and not only got me physically prepared, but mentally prepared as well. Support from your friends makes all the difference.
If you could say one thing to your dad, what would it be?
A: ‘’Thank you for the life you’ve given me. Stay close to me always''