Afterthoughts: Sri Lanka


After a few years of traveling, I sort of decided to settle myself. I bought a little house in Amsterdam, got a van, and found, perfectly enough, a perfect man. All that settlement brought me so much peace. Seriously? Nah, not really. Chaos was needed! A strange country, different culture, different people, different feelings, different vibes, adventures, nature, waves. Limits just had to be pushed again. That’s what I needed. My man and I bought tickets and 3 days later we were off to Sri Lanka, the Golden Tear of India.


I’ve been to India twice before, even for a few months, and always loved it. India will always stay India, it’s the Mother in so many ways. But Sri Lanka truly is the Golden Tear. It’s a true tropical paradise. The main religion is Buddhism and that makes it so special. The whole country is based on trust. As a tourist you are not being hassled all day long. Not enough money on you to pay the tuk tuk (taxi)driver? No worries, just pay them tomorrow, they will trust you.  The first spot we stayed at was called Hikkaduwa. It was too noisy in our opinion; we just wanted that little beach shag with no one around us.

The reef-break right in front of our hotel was one of the best of the South of Sri Lanka though, so we did stay a few days. The swell was dropping, which was perfect for me; I was able to surf the break together with the big guys. Every morning we woke up around 5:30am when it was still dark. We were always the first in the water, no massive crowds yet and that red-pink colour sun that came up behind the palm trees was just absolutely insane. Such a satisfying start to the day.  We decided not to take a bus or a tuk tuk, but to rent our own tuk tuk for the rest of the trip.


We became one with the locals. Especially after finding that perfect beach-shack. It was in a little fishing village called Gurubebila, a pretty well hidden gem. Soma, one of the tuk tuk drivers and fishermen of the village, just started running a little air-bnb-house with his family 30 meters away from the ocean in front of the break called Plantation. He and his family lived next door in the turquoise shag you see on the pictures. His wife made the most delicious breakfast every morning and if you wanted, they would cook you dinner, a fish-barbecue, obviously freshly caught with a spear that morning.

Two and a half weeks in the Golden Tear of India were absolutely stunning. Our trip was the perfect balance between adventure and chilling out, good waves, delicious food, and beautiful culture. And did I find that much needed chaos? Sure. At one point our surfboards flew off our tuk tuk while driving on a busy highway, because of a storm that caught us out of the blue. Yup, those limits were definitely pushed again.


Words & Photos by Eveline Besters